Fiji Non-birding Trip Report

[RussCannings]

I recently got back from a family trip to Fiji and although very little serious birding occurred (as we have two little kids so straying far from the accommodation was an epic undertaking, and the weather was a bit iffy for much of the stay)-- there are so few trip reports on this forum from Fiji--I thought I'd better share some observations.

From what I can tell, this should be near the top of your list for Pacific nations to visit for those looking for lifers and fantastic natural experiences. Fiji's main islands are larger than Samoa/Tonga/Cooks etc., so there is a higher diversity of native fauna, and yet they are relatively close together with a higher population base meaning it's much easier (and cheaper) to travel by boat or air between islands than say--the Cook Islands.

On this trip we stayed in two locations, both of which were deliberately away from the heavy tourists spots, and (I hoped) nestled near some native bush where I could manage a few lifers without the two-year-old falling into the ocean.

Since this was mostly a non-birding trip, I won't go into a day-to-day detailed rundown, but please get in touch if you would like trip-planning advice as I did research a lot of the birding options across the country prior to the trip (In short, most birders focus on the great primary forest near Suva, as well as the two more pristine secondary islands of Taveuni (Mongoose-free) and Kadavu).

For what it's worth, I would recommend both places we stayed:

1) Sigasiga Sands Resort: 15min drive from Savusavu (Vanua Levu--the 'other' main island) along the start of the Hibiscus :Highway". Very chilled-out spot. Self-catering but the caretakers will make Indo-Fijian curry in the evenings if you order in advance. The drawcard here other than serenity is that it's the best beach for miles (great snorkeling) and there is some contiguous secondary forest in behind with some nature trails/access roads though this might change a bit as a lot of land is up for development.

2) Mango Bay Resort: Another chilled out of the way spot but on Viti Levu (about a 2hr drive south of Nadi--main airport town-- around the Coral Coast; and 1.5 hrs west of Suva). The 1km gravel driveway offers a bit of native bush but it was a bit more disturbed/agricultural than I thought on the map. The actual resort grounds have great jungle-bush and a wonderful beach/reef but it's not as connected with the main forest across the main road as I had hoped. You can easily walk back up to the main road and see the main hill forest though I didn't hear much the one time I did it. I chatted with one village 'big man' who seemed quite happy for me to explore the private village roads that head into the hills--this generosity and casualness was surprising to me as usually birder's struggle to get self-guided permission to access village-owned hill country across much of Polynesia/Melanesia. Unfortunately I didn't have time to take this opportunity though.

Okay so what did I see/hear and some extra notes...

44 species

Grey Duck (Pacific Black Duck): Common around Savusavu/Sigasiga, including both freshwater rivers/ponds but also on ocean mudflats at low tide. Seen from the hwy on some rivers between Nadi and Mango Bay but I never saw any on mudflats on Viti Levu.

Feral Pigeon: Common around large settlements as you'd expect

Metallic Pigeon: Apparently more common in Fiji than other countries but I only heard one for certain (at Sigasiga) and saw none.

Spotted Dove: Abundant in all human-disturbed areas (They appeared slightly warmer/darker/chocolateier than NZ birds?)

Many-coloured Fruit-Dove: 1 heard daily at Mango Bay. Was expecting to hear these guys everywhere so was surprised at only 1 on the trip.

Orange Dove: Gutted but only heard 1 of these (and thought it was a frog at the time--should have done more research on the calls in advance!). While mostly associated with Taveuni Island, these guys are possible from Savusavu eastward into the Natewa Pensinula.

Peale's Imperial-Pigeon (aka Barking Pigeon): Fairly common wherever there were large native trees. Heard and seen.

Fan-tailed Cuckoo (I would think this is a potential split as they sound nothing like the Aussie birds and have a dark morph): While I heard one several times near Sigasiga, I was unable to track it down. Mimicking it's call only drove it away it seemed. I think I was forunate to visit in October when they're more vocal--I think you'd be hardpressed to get them in July (when the weather is nicer and more people visit).

White-rumped Swiftlet: Common everywhere

Pacific Golden-Plover: Fairly common in all tidal areas though not seen on any grassy fields (where they are ubiquitous in Samoa/Rarotonga)

Grey-tailed Tattler: I suppose the lone quasi-rarity of the trip. Seen/heard once on first day at Mango Bay, Viti Levu.

Wandering Tattler: Very common in all reef/tidal areas.

Brown Noddy: Probably present daily offshore but difficult to get good looks as the reef is usually a ways off the beach

White Tern: 1 seen in strong winds at Sigasiga

Great Crested Tern: A couple seen at Sigasiga but abundant at Mango Bay (including 20+ at one time)

Lesser Frigatebird: Saw around a dozen with multiple birds on both islands

Brown Booby: 1 seen at Mango Bay

Red-footed Booby: Seems to be the most common seabird as I saw quite a few from our little domestic plane between Nadi and Savusavu, and probably saw them daily offshore from both resorts, plus saw one fly directly over Nadi airport on our first evening.

White-faced Heron: Common everywhere. According to my 20 year old field guide, they had only recently colonised western Viti Levu and were spreading (had not yet reached Vanua Levu). Well I can confirm that they have certainly conquered Vanua Levu!

Reef Heron: Common on all coasts. About 50/50 white/dark morphs.

Australasian Harrier: Anecdotally they seem less abundant than in NZ though a saw a few on both islands. The most interesting observation was one at Sigasiga which was actively hunting shoal fish in the estuary! Not punge-diving like an Osprey but 'harriering' as one might in a field and grasping at fish while hovering just above the water.

Fiji Goshawk: Seemingly present near all native bush, as there were conspicuous (and vocal) pairs at both resorts.

Barn Owl: Heard once at Mango Bay

Pacific Kingfisher (Basically a paler version of Sacred with a slightly different call): Common everywhere

Collared Lory: Gorgeous and seemingly pretty common around coconut palms

Orange-breasted Myzomela: Common everywhere including urban Nadi. I noticed clear vocalization differences between Vanua Levu and Viti Levu

Western Wattled-Honeyeater: Common everywhere on Viti Levu

Northern Wattled-Honeyeater: Common on Vanua Levu (and conveniently I have seen the 'Eastern' in Samoa---not 'Southern' species exists sadly lol)

Polynesian Triller: Common everywhere (though with different ssp on each island)

Fiji (Golden complex) Whistler: Quite common in native bush behind Sigasiga (Vanua Levu) but surprisingly completely absent from the bush behind Mango Bay)--probably just unlucky?

Fiji Woodswallow--Common everywhere

Streaked Fantail--Only heard one (behind Sigasiga)

Slaty Monarch--Single birds seen in native bush both at Sigasiga and at Mango Bay. Seem flock oriented as I only saw them moving with silvereye or other birds.

Fiji Shrikebill--Possibly missed on Vanua Levu as I didn't know they song but one sang daily behind the maintenance sheds at Mango Bay and yet I NEVER SAW THE BLOODY THING. I reckon I could mimic its song fairly well which definitely caught its interest but it never even came close to showing itself.

Vanikoro Flycatcher (Broadbill)--Common everywhere

Pacific Robin--Heard only in native bush behind Sigasiga

Pacific Swallow--Surprisingly local. Present around every sizable river bridge on both islands, but quite scarce anywhere else it seemed.

Red-vented Bulbul--Along with Common Myna, most abundant bird in Fiji

Fiji Bush-Warbler: Fairly common in native-scrub. Knowing the song is helpful in finding them. On Vanua Levu I never managed to see one but the Viti Levu birds seemed much more confiding and curious about pishing etc.

Silvereye: Fairly common though I would say less so than NZ

Layard's White-eye (aka 'Fiji White-eye'): Saw/heard a few near Sigasiga but seem a lot scarcer than Silvereye. Likely more common in mature bush which I never got to.

Common Myna: Abundant everywhere

Jungle Myna: Also ubiquitous but like Samoa, probably only 5% as numerous as Common.

Fiji Parrotfinch: More often heard than seen but did manage views on both islands. A bird of edges and scrub.

---So there remains a bunch of things to be found in more mature bush or with more time sans toddlers. I would highly recommend visiting as it's a beautiful country with lots to do and very friendly people. Perhaps the most surprising dip--to me at least--was Polynesian Starling. These guys are abundant on Samoa (in all habitats) and I expected a similar situation here and yet I didn't see a single one! Perhaps more tied to native forest than Samoa?

That's all for now--again--happy to elaborate on things for anyone planning a trip.

Russ Cannings