South Island trip - advice for targets please

[Brendan T]

Hi all, I'm just hoping to pick the brains of some knowledgeable folk about an upcoming South Island trip that I'm planning.

Firstly, it's a "family holiday", though I'll still be doing a fair bit of birding since we're going for a month and my wife is pretty keen to join me in looking for some of the more "exciting" species - e.g. kiwis, penguins, parrots.

Secondly, I'm big into photography so although I love a tick as much as the next birder, I'm going to preference sites where photography opportunities are maximized (as an example of a North Island equivalent, Miranda and Ambury are fantastic for shore birds, but I always prefer to go to Big Sand just because the photo ops are much better).

Thirdly, is October the best time to go? Being originally from Aus, I just assumed, yep, Spring-time, Spring i always a good time for birds and the weather will be a bit cooler. My wife and I have already submitted our leave requests, but we could probably move those to November if needed. My main concern here is avalanche-risk, ice on the roads, etc? Coming from the hottest, driest continent, I have to be honest - the idea of the car slipping on an icy mountain road terrifies me because I have zero experience driving in such conditions. I'm thinking particularly of driving through Arthur's Pass and down the west coast past Okarito/Franz Josef, etc, through to Queenstown. Is this dangerous in October? Is there less of a chance of rain as we move into summer proper?

Fourthly, targets. My main targets are as follows, with my current best ideas for targeting them. I've done a fair bit of research already, and really utilised eBird's range maps, but nothing beats on-the-ground first-hand info. I've put my targets roughly in priority order and separated by endemic/non-endemic.

- Black Stilt: Mt Cook area, particularly that area just north of Glentanner.
- Rock Wren: can't get out to Homer's Tunnel, but relying entirely on the Otira Valley Track at Arthur's Pass
- Great Spotted Kiwi: the real challenge of the trip, considering we don't have time to do the north-east, otherwise I'd be hitting up Heaphy Hut/track area. Relying almost entirely on Hawdon Valley Track while staying at Arthur's Pass. Chances are slim, particularly since I'd like to get a proof shot, I know, so any tips appreciated.
- Rowi: Okarito, obviously. I'm used to finding my own birds, I think there's more of a culture of this in Aus, but do people just take the night tour here? Can you access the right areas on your own? I don't mind trying myself without a guide or tour if it's considered feasible. I understand the Northern Brown and Little Spotted are easier birds, but have quite happily found these myself.
- Fjordland Crested Penguin: similar question, as I want to look for them around Lake Moeraki on the east coast just below Okarito. Can you generally good decent photo ops just finding them yourself? Or is a tour the way to go, just because of access? I'm happy to be patient, am a decent birder, and have a good long lens, so it's really just a question of how fellow photographers have fared in the past. I understand the tour is the only way to see them in the forest, though?
- Hoiho: Don't need advice on this one, as I already have shots I'm really happy with from a work trip, but will probably hit up Katiki Point Lighthouse so my wife can see these as they're top of her list. Just mentioning this so it's not seen as an oversight.
- Orange-fronted Parakeet: Hawdon Valley, Brook Waimarama Sanctuary, but perhaps most importantly: Blumine Island. I understand no tours operate there but you can get dropped and picked up from the island by a cruise going to an adjacent island, and you have to wade ashore? Would particularly love info on the current situation for getting access to this island.
- King Shag: We're taking the ferry from North to South, and also hoping to get out to Blumine Island
- Foveaux Shag: Impending lump, but I'd still like to see the SI. soon-to-be-again subspecies, and improve my Otago Shag shots. Anywhere like a known pier or wharf where you can get nice good close ups?
- Black-fronted Tern: I can't imagine not seeing these at some point, as I plan to hit up many good spots, but where's your favourite place to get good shots of these guys?
- Brown Creeper, Yellowhead, S.I. Robin: Not worried about seeing these species as I should have plenty of opportunities at various places including Stewart Island and Ulva Island, Arthur's Pass for some, etc. Anywhere in particular you've found these birds to be particularly confiding for photography though?
- Kea: Should mention this isn't an oversight, just a guaranteed sighting at Arthur's Pass

- Chukar: Only introduced bird I really want. Mt John of course. How long of a walk exactly am I expecting here? I hear a morning arrival before the tourists all flood the place is necessary?
- Cirl Bunting: Blenheim - Kotuku Walkway?
- Mute Swan: heard there's some tickable birds that hang out fairly reliably at Lake Pegasus, Christchurch?
- Cape Barren Goose: heard there's some tickable birds at Travis Wetland, Christchurch? Not too fussed if I miss these plastics, but a tick's a tick if I'm already there and it doesn't cost me much time.
- Maned Duck: Will hit up Hoddy Estuary Park in Nelson if I have time
- Marsh Crake: Gotta investigate this more if the Travis bird is no longer showing my the end of the year


Non-species-specific locations:
- Lake Ellesmere for waders and vagrants. Best way to access in a 2wd? Where to walk from? I'm thinking that large sandy looking area on Google Maps that's just west of Greenpark Huts is the place to go?
- Ashley Estuary, ditto
- Awarua Bay. This place seems confusing to access and know where to go.
- Albatross Encounter to get some more sweet, sweet pelagic species

Am I missing any species you think I may have overlooked?
Is there any particular advice or info I really need to know that I seem to have missed, particularly as regards some of the locations I've mentioned above? I'm quite vague on access info for a few, e.g. Blumine Island.

Cheers

[FraserGurney]

Hi Brendan,

I'm not a photographer but I can help with some general advice. The roads will almost certainly be fine in October, NZTA are usually pretty good at putting out warnings and shutting roads if this isn't the case. Keep an eye on the weather, temperatures and NZTA website in the days before driving, and of course take it slow if you're worried.

Black Stilt - Glentanner is the best starting point, you can park in a pull in (43°54'17.9"S 170°07'34.2"E) or at the Glentanner Park Centre just to the south. Walk towards the delta. Otherwise there are many pools etc around Twizel and Tekapo, keep checking eBird.
Rockwren - a bit hit and miss in the Otira, and there Avalanche Risk in October. However I do know of several people who have seen them here in October. The first bridge onwards is usually where they are seen.
Great Spotted Kiwi - very tough in Arthur's Pass and the Hawdon, but often heard. Any track around the village or the Hawdon is equally likely (unlikely).
Rowi - The tour is by far the best way, very difficult on your own due to the thick forest. If a nocturnal, ground dwelling, low density, thick forest bird was in Australia - there'd be a tour option for that too!
Fiordland Crested Penguin - the lodge at Lake Moeraki has a very good success rate, but even there it is rare to see them in the forest. Monro beach next to the lodge (public access) is your best bet if you want to do it yourself. There's signage on the beach indicating where to stand, bring insect repellent and long sleeves/trousers. Keep an eye out on the ferry into Stewart Island too, including on the rocks on your right as you enter Halfmoon bay.
Orange-fronted parakeet - yes Blumine by far the best option, several companies will drop you there and it's a shallow wade (knee deep) ashore. The parakeets are often nearish to the landing point. Try E-ko tours, they will show you king shag too.
Foveaux shag - anywhere on the south coast around Bluff or the road out to Tiwai Point. Sumpter wharf in Oamaru for Otago shag.
Black-fronted tern you will see in the same places as black stilt - go to Ashley Estuary north of Christchurch as another option.

Chukar - along the access road up Mt John. If that's shut or you dont want to pay the fee, you can scope from the road at the bottom or walk up the track by Tekapo Springs. Can be anywhere on Mt John, early morning is indeed best.
Cirl bunting - very hit and miss, but keep an eye on eBird between Blenheim and Christchurch.
Mute Swan - yes, Pegasus Wetlands or ponds near Waikuku beach.
Cape Barren Goose - yes Travis Wetland, often with the Canada Geese.
Marsh Crake - keep an eye on eBird, several halfway decent spots for this species now.

Lake Ellesmere - the end of Embankment Road (43°43'10.3"S 172°29'44.3"E) is the best starting point, then walk towards the lake. Birds can be left or right once you get close to the water. Other options are Wolfe's Road (43°42'58.8"S 172°27'42.5"E) and Jarvis Road (43°44'06.9"S 172°31'17.8"E).
Ashley Estuary - go up the Kings Ave entrance towards the river, along the embankment and park here 43°16'47.7"S 172°42'50.7"E. Otherwise, follow your nose to the carpark at Waikuku Beach.
Awarua Bay - not sure on access here these days, haven't been in a while. I think can be accessed around the north side, tide dependent. Someone else will have better info.

Hope this helps!

Cheers,
Fraser

[Byrd]

If you're in Kaikoura for albatrosses then the walk around the hills by the seal colony would perhaps be the best place to look for Cirl Buntings, and St Anne's Lagoon between Kaikoura and Chch for Cape Barren Goose.

You can (potentially) see Rowi just along the road to Okarito at night.

Oamaru is probably the easiest place to get photos of the Otago Shags, they roost/nest along the old wharf there with Spotted Shags.

[Brendan T]

Thank you both, and to those who private messaged me. Some great advice there, for sure! I especially appreciate those couple of coordinates drops, Fraser.

I feel much more comfortable knowing the roads should be okay at that time of year, too.

Should I not access Otira in October at all, or do you just need to pay attention to warnings and alerts, watch the weather, and exercise common sense while out, etc?

"If a nocturnal, ground dwelling, low density, thick forest bird was in Australia - there'd be a tour option for that too!" - Looking forward to a coming Night Parrot tour, then. In seriousness though, thanks, it sounds like the tour is the best option. Reading it back, I hope it didn't come across as "Aussies don't need tours"!! I was thinking it may have been similar to our Grasswrens - probably one of the birds that people take tours for most frequently, but still find-able yourself - just very difficult. But access to the habitat clinches it. Definitely not a bird either my wife or I want to miss, and she would be less prone to wanting to spend an entire night out searching!

That E-ko Tours mention, and those Lake Ellesemere instructions, definitely shore up two of my biggest question marks I still had! Thanks!

I think Awarua Bay access is my last point of major uncertainty so hopefully someone who has been there recently can chime in.

[Oscar Thomas]

Keep an eye on warnings for Otira, and use common sense as you mentioned there's no point going up the valley to find rock wren if there is much rain/snow/wind anyway.

A couple friends of mine are visiting Awarua today and tomorrow, I will let you know how they get on. After the recent fires it was closed completely for a period.

[Jim_j]

Hi Brendan
If your primary focus is photography then a guided tour is probably your best bet.
I have cruised down the road to Okarito at night and seen a kiwi - but it was just the bum running into the bush - and although we sopped and looked and could hear it, we couldn't see it in the thick bush.
Having said that with the area now being pest free and kiwi numbers on the rise you might easily stumble across one on a lawn or field in the village!!
Okarito is a place worth staying a couple of days - the birdlife is fantastic and kea often visit

If there are any rockwren left in the Otira Valley they are more likely to be at the head of the valley and you would have to cross avalanche paths to get there - probably best to wait for summer - you could ask however at the DoC office in Arthurs Pass for advice.

Cheers
Jim

[Nick Allen]

October is good for birding in the SI though November is a bit warmer. If you wait until summer you will likely miss Fiordland Penguin as they tend to be more difficult from early December - they are winter breeders. Things start to quieten down in December in the bush too.

Arthur's Pass can still get snow and ice at times in October, though it generally doesn't last long. I'm cautious of passing through from early evening to mid-morning if going to/from the West Coast if temps have been low. I've seen Rock Wrens up the Ōtira in October. The upper valley can have avalanche danger in spring. This is signposted at the track start. It depends on winter/recent snow, When I went there was little snow on the valley sides, so quite safe. The DOC centre in Arthur's will be able to tell you the risk. The birds are past the footbridge, maybe a few hundred metres. I usually hear the species before I see it.

Maybe a more reliable site for Rock Wren is the Hollyford side of Harris Saddle on the Routeburn Track where regular pest control has increased their numbers. The Routeburn Falls hut is open on a first-come first served basis and alpine conditions may occur. I'd only bother going if the weather had been mild and the track not likely to be icy. It's a long day walk if contemplating that - about 5 hours each way. There are likely to be Kea at Routeburn Falls Hut, Yellowheads and maybe Yellow-crowned Parakeets in the bush and Blue Duck sometimes on the Route Burn.

Black Stilt - the Pukaki Delta is where most birders seem to look. The species can also sometimes be seen well in the SE corner of Lake Takapo - a shortish walk from the township/chapel. Up the nearby Godley Peaks Road they are often in the bay opposite Lake McGregor, or in the marshy eastern end of that lake, or in Lake Murray a few km further on - if water levels are right in that ephemeral wetland. Close views of Crested Grebes can also be had in and near the outlet stream of Lake Alexandrina, where a number of pairs usually nest.

Great Spotted Kiwi-surprised nobody has mentioned Bullock Creek Road N of Punakaiki. This is probably the hardest kiwi species to see, let alone photograph. There is a trip to the Westland Petrel colony where the petrels often give really close views, and it is an experience in itself.

Rowi - IMHO looking for the birds yourself is a decidedly meh and/or frustrating experience in comparison to the well-run tour.

Fiordland Penguin - I prefer the end of the Wharakai Te Kou track at Jackson Bay S of Haast. There used to be a boat tour in the bay there that provided amazing views of the species, but alas that hasn't run for decades. Unless the lodge has a tour stakeout in the bush I'd promote not entering the bush and potentially disturbing the birds - the seaside bush is really dense and full of spiny creeping plants anyway. The species can sometimes be seen on pelagics out of Halfmoon Bay on Stewart Island, along with Subantarctic Skua and nesting Foveaux Shags, and close views of albatrosses, including Buller's.

Orange-fronted Parakeet - re The Brook Sanctuary I've struggled to see them there. I get the feeling that they are mostly away from the track network on the western side of the valley (the public tracks are pretty much only on the eastern side of the valley or next to/in the stream). Love to be proven wrong though, as the reserve now reportedly holds the largest population of the species. It's a really difficult bird to see in the Hawdon, and it seems to have a precarious existence there these days.

King Shag - not at all easy from the ferry, especially to photograph - really need to take a tour.

Black-fronted Terns often hawk over the paddocks near Cora Lynn alongside SH73 east of Bealey and you can often get close to them. They sometimes breed in the SE bay of Lake Takapo, near where the Black Stilts might be. They also breed and fly up and down the Ashley River between the coast and up past Rangiora - walking access onto the river in several spots.

Brown Creeper is a common SI bird, but easily overlooked and best located by call. Best place I know is Hinewai Reserve on Banks Peninsula, which has a huge population of them. Also had good views along the first section of the Kōwhai River route from the Mt Fyffe/Hīnau Track end of the road through Kōwhai Bush inland of Kaikōura.

Yellowhead seem to be becoming more difficult to see as the years go by on the mainland and predator control only seems to be slowing their decline in some/most places. You might see them at the Routeburn Shelter carpark, or along the track to Routeburn Flats, though the impression I got last time I walked the track a year or so back was the bush was devoid of them below the gorge. The best sightings I've had of the species were along the upper stretch of the Catlins River Track near The Wisp, though that was a few years ago.

Cirl Bunting - seem to be regular on the pine edge of Raramai Golf Course near Blenheim. The species loves the golf courses of Nelson's coastal fringe, saw a couple of pairs at least on each of them when following my golfing wife around some of them a few months ago. They are more skulky than Yellowhammers and it's best to know their calls (not just their song) to locate them. They will often react (sometimes quite impressively) to a recording of song. It seems to be quite regular in lowland and especially coastal farmland (best with a few bushes/hedges) through Nelson and Marlborough to and including Banks Peninsula. There also seems to be a regular pair next to Otematata Golf Course along the road between that town and the Benmore Dam, and I've found them in farmland near Waimate.

Cape Barren Goose - the birds at St Annes Lagoon seem to have died out a couple of years ago. In Canterbury the nucleus of the population seems to be around Lower Styx Road (around number house #118), and that is likely to be the source of the birds at Travis Wetlands and Kaiapoi sewage ponds. I had a short conversation with a Lower Styx Road resident a few years ago and they seemed to have grown sick of them, so I guess they might be 'controlled' there at some stage, if they aren't already.

Mute Swan - usually at Pegasus Wetlands, usually give good views at wetlands to the north of Tiritiri Moana Drive. Also often good views of them at the Taranaki Creek Wetlands next to Waikuku Beach Road (also very photogenic roadside Pied/Little Shag colony there). If not they are likely to be along the Harts Creek Walkway (Lakeside, Lake Ellesmere), or almost certainly at Coopers Lagoon.

Lake Ellesmere wader sites. That sandy area east of Greenpark Huts is Greenpark Sands, though it isn't usually sandy. It's muddy - either dried (but then not ideal for birds), or wet, slippery, sticky and stinky.

Awarua Bay - I've walked to the roosting islands at the northern end. You take the road along the western shore as far as you can drive. A major drain has to be crossed to get to the islands. The late Phil Rhodes vividly described crossing it when it was chest deep one cold Southland day after a wader count, so timing and the tides and having the patience to wait until the water has gone down are probably important. The eastern shore can be followed for a distance and there are S NZ Dotterels present, at least outside their breeding season, along that shore near Cow Island. I was told the roads on the eastern shore were on private smelter land and you needed permission to use them. Not sure if that is still the case.

As well as the Kaikōura Pelagic I've enjoyed the Monarch Cruise from Wellers Rock near Taiaroa Head as you get a great view of the general set-up of the albatross colony, plus the other seabirds of the area. Pelagics out of Halfmoon Bay are also worthwhile.

A boat trip from Ōkārito on the lagoon often gives great photo opportunities, and the White Heron tour out of Whataroa is well set up for photos of the herons and spoonbills nesting at the colony near there.

[Brendan T]

Some more great info. Really appreciate it. Thank you, Nick, especially - tonnes there for me to work through.

I'd love to hike the Routeburn sometime, but I think that'll be another trip - not sure I'd be able to get out to do even the daywalk this trip. Which means Rock Wren is going to come down purely to what the avalance risk is like at the time I'm at Arthur's Pass, which is near the start of the trip in early October, so I've added an extra day in Christchurch near the end in case I "need" to duck back up there closer to November.

Close views of Crested Grebes sounds nice. In general I'll be prioritising endemics over anything I can/have seen in Aus or the North Island, but GCBs in particular are a favourite so I'll definitely make the time to check out that spot you mentioned.

"There is a trip to the Westland Petrel colony where the petrels often give really close views, and it is an experience in itself." - This and the Heaphy Track are unfortunately the two things I just couldn't fit into the trip that I think I'm going to be most sad about missing out on. But there's always another time.

Awarua Bay definitely sounds like quite a trek to get to, rather than simply setting up a scope by the roadside and scanning - I may have to somehow allow some extra time there. It's too good of a vagrant trap not to visit when I'm driving straight past.

When you mention taking a tour for King Shag, I'm presuming something like E-ko Tours that Fraser mentioned that'll drop you at Blumine and swing past the King Shags would do the trick?

I'll have to go through the rest of your advice more slowly. Cheers!

[Nick Allen]

Actually, looking at the map the road you take to the main roost at Awarua Bay is along the northern shore - that's me thinking it is on the east coast of the SI when it is around the corner on the south coast. It's called Awarua Bay Road and isn't that well signposted off Tiwai Road - basically you go straight on at a sweeping right hand bend after a long stretch of straight road that has for most of its length followed the power lines feeding the smelter. If you reach the bridge (as I've done in the past) its a sign you should turn round. It's not that long or particularly difficult a walk from the road end, just that the sometimes deep creek needs to be crossed. I enjoyed the walk to Cow Island Bandy Point via Fenceline Bay perhaps more than the eastern end of the inlet/bay. You park across the bridge over the estuary and park near one of the power pylons and walk east along the southern shore.

For King Shags yes you can combine them with the trip to Blumine I/outer sound.

You can usually see Crested Grebes close up at Lake Pegasus in Pegasus town, but the surroundings at Alexandrina are nicer for photography. There is usually a pair at the Twizel salmon farm/shop/cafe as well that often provide stupidly close views (along with Scaup that can clearly be seen feeding underwater). Similarly Kea are perhaps easiest to photograph in Arthur's Pass township at or next to the cafe, but those up at Deaths Corner (viaduct lookout) will usually pose more interestingly on natural scrub, or on people's cars - depending what sort of photos you want. They are often also near the public toilets at Arthur's but it might be better to give photographing at that location with a long lens a miss if possible.

[Oscar Thomas]

Awarua Bay is accessible at the moment following the fires. My friends had a good trip there this week with around 30 southern New Zealand dotterels feeding mainly in the west end of the bay, below where the bridge is and across to Cow Island. Although they tend to move to the eastern end (head of the bay) from July to August. Only a few remain there over summer/ Also 1200 godwits, lots of turnstones and knots, 10 stints and a few golden plovers around. The terek sandpiper strangely tends to disappear over summer too.

Access wise, if you want to be able to drive right down to the head of the bay where the bulk of migratory waders roost at high tide, you are encouraged to apply for a permit through the Tiwai Point website (https://nzas.co.nz/access-permit/), print it out and take it to the smelter security office and ask for the DOC gate key. They haven't been checking permits much recently but you don't want to get turned away if you only have one shot to visit. Then it is about 30min driving down to the head of the bay, 4WD or a vehicle with good clearance best as there are lots of potholes. This takes away the need to consider tides for crossing channels and you could show up at high tide on the dot if you wanted, which is about 30min after the Bluff high tide.

If you don't want to go through all that, as Nick said you can also walk across from the end of Awarua Bay road which goes all the way along the northern edge of the bay. It is a 3km trek across to the roost just be mindful of the tides. Best to be at the roost across high tide, so it's almost a full day out.

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